February 28, 2006 marks two anniversaries: The 150th Mardi Gras celebrated in New Orleans, and the 6th-month post-Katrina.It is a magnificent feat, Mardi Gras, in and of itself. What looks to the rest of the world like some chaotic bender of a drinking party, is really very deep-rooted in local traditions - some of them mysterious and secretive. It is for families in a much larger fashion than for the breast-baring tourist. Our police department shines as the highest regarded expert force in terms of crowd control. There are special songs, King Cakes, beads and doubloons, Zulu coconuts, parking tickets (MY tradition to get at least one every year) and parade route parties.
The parties.
I used to live on a parade route - in the apartment above the bike shop in an eclectic neighborhood of Magazine Street. Long after I moved out, I still returned, even years later with my kids - to Herwigs Bike Shop to watch parade with Cheryl and her crew. Well, Cheryl sold the bike shop and the shotgun double built above it - so the Thoth Party is no more.
Bryan's Granny lived on Philip Street, in the heart of the Garden District - so we could always count on her home as the base for any of the parades that took the Uptown route. We probably spent the majority of the weekend through Fat Tuesday at her home, where she had hot dogs, king cakes, SO many visitors - and she had some ins so that she could supply us with the treasured Zulu coconuts and Bachus pendant beads before the parades. Alas - she passed away two years ago and the house was sold.
Many a year I've spent at the Deutsches Haus for the Endymion Parade. The Deutsches Haus took in too much water that sat for way too long. Not to mention the routes have all been modified to suit the shortened police availability - so no knackwurst, Warsteiner or "Ein Prosits" for the Über-Krewe this year.
Many changes.
Some around the world will wonder why we need a Mardi Gras when there is such despair, depression, homelessness, loss of possessions and life and livelihoods. I could argue that the economic boost from the tourism makes it worthwhile. That showing the rest of the planet that the show must go on exhibiting our can-do attitudes is the reason for Mardi Gras this year.
But really, it is particularly BECAUSE there is despair, depression, homelessness, and great suffering and loss - that we NEED a Mardi Gras this year.
Under a Cajun moon I lay me open . . . There is a spirit here that won't be broken. ~ Thomas Dolby "I Love You, Goodbye"
Perhaps you've read what Chef Emeril answered when asked what's happening in New Orleans?
